Walking to Santiago - On foot for selected sections of the pilgrims’ way

Leave from Biarritz Airport following the arrival of the flight from London Stansted (Ryanair, currently 1.10pm). Flights are not included – see ‘Practicalities’. Drive to Roncesvalles for the night.

Roncesvalles to Lintzoaín/Erro: 14.7 km, c. 4 hours. Weather permitting, we start at the summit of the pass and drop down on foot to Roncesvalles, traditional starting point of the pilgrimage in Spain. It has a fine collegiate church preserving memories of Sancho the Strong of Navarre. From here, walk downward through rustic, gentle sub-Pyrenean landscape and stately stone-built villages.

Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 21 km, c. 5 hours. Drive to Nájera, another of the burial places of the royal house of Navarre. Climb through red sandstone with vines in rocky corners, through varied irrigated crops and out into rolling wheat country with mountains lying north and south - this is a good day for striding out. Lunch is in a village café. Continue to Santo Domingo de la Calzada where there is time to visit the cathedral. Overnight Santo Domingo.

Villafranca Montes de Oca to Agés: c. 16 km, c. 4 hours. Begin with an hour’s walk uphill into mildly mountainous country, passing a disturbing monument to victims of Civil War assassination. Cross a plateau and continue through pine and oak forest to a beautiful valley enclosing the monastery of San Juan de Ortega (fine Gothic church). Picnic in the woods. Continue to the village of Agés. Drive to Burgos for the first of two nights.

Rest, nurse feet and loiter in this Castilian city rich in memories of El Cid and medieval pilgrimage, Wellington and Franco. There is time to see the magnificent cathedral, the charterhouse of Miraflores (superb sculpture by Gil de Siloé), and the monastery of Las Huelgas (fine architecture and images relevant to the camino).

Rabé de las Calzadas to Hontanas, c. 19 km, c. 4 hours. A fine if strenuous walk, swinging through hills with an upland feel, plenty of skylarks, wide views, scant shade and stone built villages. There are three manageable climbs, each one shorter than the last. Lunch in a village café, then drive to León for the night. The royal pantheon of San Isidoro is one of the first, and finest, Romanesque buildings in Spain, with important sculptures.

Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga: c. 13 km, c. 3 hours. About one hour into the walk we make a modest ascent and suddenly the plains are over. There are two or three small climbs this morning through remote-feeling countryside and wheat fields ending in shady corners under small oaks. We finish just outside Astorga, with views down to the cathedral. Continue into town by coach. Here, the bishop’s palace was designed by Gaudí and there is an impressive town hall. Overnight Astorga.

Foncebadón to Acebo: 11 km, c. 4 hours. From the charming village of Foncebadón with its reticulated slate roofs and crooked balconies, climb to the highest point of the camino, with spectacular views. Lunch in a pilgrim’s restaurant in Acebo. Drive from here to Villafranca del Bierzo for the night.

Triacastela to Sarriá: c. 18.5 km, c. 5 hours. Drive to Triacastela via O Cebreiro, first port of call in Galicia for pilgrims, with Celtic buildings and an ancient church. The walk starts low and climbs through Galician-green valley and into country of tiny hamlets where cows chew the cud in dark medieval sheds. Sunken tracks, ferns and ivy abound and there is later a fine upland feel. After lunch in a bar en route we begin a slow descent to Sarriá. Continue by coach to Monforte de Lemos. Overnight Monforte de Lemos.

Phase 1, Sarriá to Ferreiros: c. 13 km, c. 4 hours. Phase 2, Monte del Gozo to Santiago de Compostela: c. 4 km, c. 2 hours. Return to Sarriá by coach and walk to Ferreiros. After lunch in a bar, drive on to Monte del Gozo. Here pilgrims once fell to their knees at the first view of the cathedral spires of Santiago (harder to see now through eucalyptus). Walk a further 4 km through suburbs into increasingly ancient city centre and right into the Parador, another important and beautiful historic building. First of two nights in Santiago de Compostela.

Visit the cathedral, a Romanesque masterpiece with a magnificent carved portal. Time is allowed for those who wish to attend Pilgrim’s mass at midday. The rest of the day is free.

Drive to Santiago Airport in time for the flight to London Stansted (Ryanair, currently departing at c. 3.15pm).