Cyprus: stepping stone of history - Island civilisation in the Eastern Mediterranean

Fly from London Heathrow to Larnaca at midday (British Airways). Drive c. 80 miles to reach Paphos, arriving c. 9.00pm. First of three nights in Paphos

The day is spent in and around Paphos. The UNESCO-listed archaeological park dates largely from the Roman period and includes impressive mosaics, restored and sheltered from the elements under modern wood constructions. Visit the remains at the Tombs of the Kings, a necropolis where one hundred graves were once found. The afternoon is dedicated to the excellent District Archaeological Museum and the Byzantine Museum, notable for the 13th and 14th-century icons, as well as a 9th-century icon of Agia Marina, considered the island’s oldest. 

En route to the ancient city kingdom of Kourion, we pass Episkopi, one of two British sovereign territories on the island. The earliest remains found at the extensive archaeological site at Kourion date from the Hellenistic period (325–50 BC), although evidence suggests the city kingdom was founded by the Argives of the Peloponnese. Continue to Limassol (Lemesos), visiting the fort and castle, originally an early Christian basilica rebuilt in the 16th century under Ottoman rule. Local folklore claims the castle’s chapel as the location for Richard the Lionheart’s wedding to Berengaria de Navarre. Return to Paphos via the Birthplace of Aphrodite. 

Today is punctuated by stops at three monasteries: Ayios Neophytos, founded in the 12th century by the recluse and writer Neophytos. Byzantine paintings cover the cave that he carved out of the mountainside. Several 16th-century icons can be viewed in the church, constructed much later. A further 12th-century foundation is the beautifully-sited Chrysorrogiatissa monastery; the church here dates to the late 18th century. In stark contrast to the modest rural churches, the lavishly decorated Kykkos monastery is one of Cyprus’ wealthiest. The complex is home to one of three icons attributed to Apostle Luke. First of two nights in Kalopanayiotis. 

The Troodos mountain range is famous for its collection of Byzantine churches and monasteries, still in use today. With unprepossessing exteriors, the painted interiors are a revelation. The frescoes are in varying states of preservation, some having been partially removed or destroyed during later expansions. Among those seen today are Ayios Ioannis Lambadistou, adjacent to our hotel, and Agios Nikolaos Tis Stegis, notable for the extensive frescoes to survive.

Leave the mountains stopping at the small Byzantine church of Panagia Asinou. Cross the border for the first time into the Turkish occupied north of the island and drive to the coast at Kyrenia (Girne). Visit the 16th-century castle, occupying one end of the harbour. Continue to Bellapais, immortalised by Lawrence Durrell. Here a 13th-century church and 14th-century cloister were added to the original Augustinian monastery. First of three nights in the southern capital Nicosia (Lefkosia, Lefkoşa). 

The city remains divided by the Green Line. We spend the morning at the Cyprus Museum, housing the most extensive collection of Cypriot antiquities worldwide (due to the building’s capacity, only a small amount of the collection can be on display). The A.G. Leventis Gallery displays key Cypriot art, with a focus on the events of 1974 and the consequences felt by the Greek Cypriots. Some free time. The Byzantine Museum and Cathedral are currently closed for restoration. If they re-open in time we recommend visiting.

The ancient coastal city of Salamis lies to the north of the border, near Famagusta (Gazimağusa). Christians rebuilt sculptures and archways throughout the former Cypriot capital following a 4th-century earthquake. Large parts of the city remain unexcavated – a further example of the differing attitudes of the north and south towards cultural heritage. Founded following the destruction of Salamis, Famagusta, now the northern capital, was the island’s most important sea port before 1974. Return to Nicosia for a walking tour of the north, including Buyuk Han, Selimiye Mosque, crossing the border to the south on foot. 

Visit the Leventis Municipal Museum of Nicosia in the Old City, of particular importance is the Caterina Cornaro gallery. Drive to Larnaca airport for the flight to London Heathrow, arriving c. 6.00pm.