Out of the Ordinary
posted on 27/06/24
They say that familiarity breeds contempt, or at best, apathy. Yet after at least 20 times of setting off from the departure halls of London Heathrow to Japan (via Helsinki, Amsterdam, Munich, Paris – and even once via Moscow), to visit my relatives in Osaka, I have never lost the feeling of excitement, anticipation and looming discovery familiar to anyone travelling somewhere for the first time.
To the traveller, at first glance, Japan can perhaps seem overwhelming, or difficult to grasp in its entirety. Being at once on the cutting edge of modernity, but also rooted deeply in long-standing cultural traditions, the dynamisms and aesthetics of Japan are multifaceted and at times, contradictory. But to me, these juxtapositions read less as contradictions, more as fascinating and enduring entanglements, which reveal the very pleasures of exploring the country.
This can be experienced in all aspects of Japanese life. Diving across the country, is a network of ultrafast bullet trains, or shinkansen, long the byword of futuristic travel and efficiency. Yet on board, many will be opening ekiben, a specific type of bento, or ‘box-meal’. These compartmentalised lunch boxes, containing rice, meat, and pickles descend from a long tradition of transporting meals in wooden boxes, which also featured as part of the intermissions of kabuki theatre shows in the 17th century. Though a rather quotidian example, to me, the integration of ekiben in ultra-modern travel perfectly highlights how the tradition/modernity ‘clash’ unveils itself in a Japanese context as a more comfortable and intriguing occurrence.
A 'Shinkansen' bullet train and basic bento box, author's own.
The proliferation of ekiben since the 19th century has itself generated a specific craft to produce these boxed lunches. In turn, enthusiasts travel far and wide to sample regional ekiben – in Kanazawa prefecture, oshizushi (pressed sushi) is enjoyed by passengers, whilst in Hiroshima, anago meshi (eel rice) is the speciality of ekiben vendors. This is another intriguing aspect of Japanese culture: the accordance of high levels of respect and dedication to ‘ordinary’ production. From pottery and textiles to the humble station lunchbox, the application of equal respect to the mundane as accorded to ‘high’ art forms has shaped an exquisite depth of cultural heritage across numerous themes.
In 2025 MRT makes its much-anticipated return to Japan, with three diverse itineraries, each of which illustrates the varying, fluctuating relationships between the past, present and future in Japanese cultural output. On 'Art in Japan', we visit the famed art colony on Naoshima Island, home to striking galleries by architect Tadao Ando. 'Japanese Gardens' studies the evolution of gardens through the centuries, including Kyoto’s exquisite temple estates. Taking us to the heart of Japan, to explore architecture both old and new, stunning natural beauty and its history, 'Traditions of Japan' encompasses a breadth of visits across diverse chronologies, including Kanazawa’s geisha quarter, and walks through Tokyo Midtown.
A restaurant specialising in 'yakitori' or traditional chicken, The grounds of Kiyomizu temple with Kyoto behind, Kent with a deer in Nara (vicious). Author's own.
Meanwhile, Professor Lloyd Lewellyn-Jones leads a series of four talks this summer, entitled 'A Tale of Two Cities: Kyoto and Tokyo'. This series will explore the idea of impermanence/permanence in two pivotal periods in Japanese history, through two specific sites – Kyoto in the Heian era (794 to 1185) and Tokyo (or Edo as it was known) in the period of the Tokugawa Shogunate (1603 to 1868).
Whatever tours you may choose to join, or webinar series you may tune into, I hope that the dynamic blend of modern and traditional instil as much curiosity, enjoyment and wonder as they have for me after so many years of visiting.
By Kent Pringle, Marketing Executive.
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Our Japan programme in 2025:
Art in Japan, 2–13 June 2025
Traditions of Japan, 20 October–1 November 2025
Japanese Gardens, 6–17 November 2025
Online Talk series:
A Tale of Two Cities: Kyoto and Tokyo – four online talks by Professor Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones, 6–27 August 2024
