Eastern Turkey - Archaeology, architecture, history & landscapes

Fly at c. 1.30pm (Turkish Airlines) from London Heathrow to Gaziantep via Istanbul, arriving Gaziantep c. 10.45pm. Overnight in Gaziantep.

After a leisurely start, visit the Gaziantep Museum, home to one of Turkey’s most impressive collections of mosaics, relocated from the nearby site of Zeugma before the area was flooded by the construction of the Birecik Dam. The mosaics, dating from the 2nd and 3rd centuries bc, are testament to the wealth of the region and are among the finest examples anywhere to be found. Drive to Şanlıurfa and visit the extraordinary excavations at Göbekli Tepe. Dated to c. 10,000 bc, this is perhaps the earliest known man-made place of worship and challenges current ideas about the early Neolithic. First of two nights in Şanlıurfa.

Şanlıurfa, or Ancient Edessa as named by Alexander the Great’s successor Seleucus I Nicator, an early Christian centre of learning and now a pilgrimage town for Muslims. In the morning, drive out of Şanlıurfa to Karahan Tepe, another Neolithic site showcasing T-shaped pillars and stone structures dating back over 10,000 years. In the afternoon visit the complex of 12th-century mosques purported to mark Abraham’s birthplace.

The Tigris and Euphrates rivers define the region known as Mesopotamia (‘land between the rivers’ in Greek), which has been home to many great civilisations including the Akkadians and the Assyrians. Drive north toward the Euphrates and stop to see the Ataturk Dam (the third largest in the world). Atop one of the highest peaks in the Eastern Taurus mountain, Nemrut Dağ, stands the temple-tomb of Antiochus I (86–31 bc). This monumental structure reflects the syncretism of Commagene’s culture, blending Greek and Persian influences in its pantheon. Overnight in Karadut.

Located in the upper Tigris basin, Diyarbakir has been a focal point at the crossroads of Mesopotamia. Its identity is deeply rooted in this strategic location, and throughout history, it has been influenced by nearly every dynasty that has ruled over Anatolia and Mesopotamia. The Great Mosque dates back to 639 and was rebuilt in the 11th century. St. Giragos Church (1376) is one of the largest Armenian churches in the Middle East. Continue to Mardin where the next two nights are spent.

Deyrul Zafaran, built in 495 and once the seat of the Syrian Orthodox patriarch, has some beautiful stonework in the chapel housing the patriarchal throne. The Kasimiye Madrasah was built during the Artuklu Period and completed in 1445. This two-storey, domed building features a single courtyard of smooth cut stone. In the afternoon, explore Mor Behnam Church, a historic landmark in Mardin built in 569. The day concludes with a visit to the Grand Mosque, originally built with two minarets; today, only one remains, bearing an inscription from 1176.

The 260-mile journey from Mardin to Van offers a fascinating change of scenery. From barren, stony terrain, the landscape transitions to fertile plains before revealing the stunning vistas of Lake Van. Stop en route near the village of Anıtlı to visit the Meryem Ana Manastırı (Monastery of the Virgin Mary). Initially believed to be a 1st-century Roman triumphal arch, it was later converted into a church between the 5th and 6th centuries. After lunch in Batman, continue to Van. First of three nights in Van.

Take a boat to the 10th-century Church of the Holy Cross, seat of Armenian king Gagik Artzruni, who was crowned here in 908. Built in 921, the church is made of local sandstone with relief carvings of Biblical stories, mythological animals and Gagik himself. Faded frescoes adorn the interior. A verdant enclave surrounded by pea-green waters and snow capped mountains, the setting is idyllic. Enjoy a lakeside lunch before returning to Van. 

Capital of the kingdom of Urartu in the 9th century bc, Van (ancient Tushpa) was rival to Assyria. The Van Museum displays artefacts tracing the history of the region from the Stone Age to the present. Explore the massive, steep-sided Van Castle, first investigated by Austen Henry Layard in the 1840s, and the trilingual inscription from the time of Xerxes, which contributed to the decipherment of cuneiform. In the afternoon drive to Çavuştepe to see the basalt remains of the fortress-palace of Sarduri-Hinili, including the sacrifice area, open-air temple, cemetery and cisterns. Continue to the magnificent Hosap Castle, built by the Kurds.

Drive through the Artüs Mountain range toward the Iranian border, to the İshak Paşa Palace positioned at the base of Mount Ararat. A magnificent example of Ottoman architecture, it is a fascinating mixture of styles: Seljuk, Iranian, Georgian and Armenian. Drive up through pasture land following the Armenian border north to plateaus with spectacular mountain vistas. First of two nights in Kars.

Once the capital of medieval Armenia, Ani is now a deserted city standing sentinel above the Arpaçay river, the border between Turkey and Armenia. Its walls, towers and minarets retain many of their foundation inscriptions, and its ruined churches and cathedral display the variety and quality of Armenian architecture. Unlike Ani, Kars bears the marks of subsequent Ottoman and Russian occupation. Visit the Armenian Church of the Holy Apostles and the Seljuk castle and Ulu Camii.

Follow the Aras river west through the Aladağlar mountains; magical scenery with fields of gorse and fern, pristine river beds and deep ravines. Pass the beautiful six-arched Çobandede bridge over the Aras. In Erzurum, the principal city of eastern Anatolia, visit the splendid Seljuk Ulu Camii, with its wooden dome, and also the twin-minareted Çifte Minare Medrese, its entrance adorned with stalactite porches. First of two nights in Erzurum.

All day excursion to the 10th-century Georgian monasteries of Ösk Vank and Khakhuli north of Erzurum. Known as Tao-Klarjeti, this area was an important part of medieval Georgia, ruled by the Bagratid kings. Both monasteries were founded by the Georgian noble David the Great Kuropalates in the second half of the 10th century: Khakhuli, an important literary centre, retains its cross-dome triple-apsed church, with fine relief carvings and frescoes still surviving. Ösk Vank is even more impressive, with scallop-shell arches, high relief mouldings and sculpted column capitals. Overnight Erzurum. 

Drive north through the Pontic Alps, in the steps of Xenophon’s Ten Thousand. The Sümela Monastery, founded in the fourth century, clings to the sheer rock face above the Altindere Valley. A recent restoration programme has secured the future of the many surviving monastic buildings, with extensive frescoes of the 14th- and 18th-centuries. Descend through temperate forests to Trabzon, the historic port town on the Black Sea. First of two nights in Trabzon.

In the morning, visit the Pavilion where Atatürk stayed in 1924. Continue to the late-Byzantine church of Aya Sophia, with 13th-century frescoes and frieze. The Kızlar Monastery, or Panaghia Theoskepastos, built during the reign of Alexios III of Trebizond, is a historic female monastery overlooking Trabzon. Featuring inscriptions and portraits of Alexios III, it has undergone repairs over the years. The day concludes with a city tour of Trabzon.

Fly from Trabzon to London Heathrow, via Istanbul, arriving at c. 4.50pm.