Medieval Normandy - Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance
8
days
from
£3,440
10th May 2025
- Architecture, together with medieval sculpture and stained glass.
- Superb examples of Romanesque and Gothic.
- Leisurely drives through the beautiful landscapes of the Seine Valley.
Beginning in the middle of the ninth century, raiding parties from Scandinavia first pillaged, and then occupied, the coastal reaches of northern France. The effect on Carolingian France was catastrophic, and as its governmental systems collapsed, France disintegrated into a patchwork of small feudal domains.
Normandy was one of the most significant of these, and after the old Norse chieftain Rollo was granted the lordship of the lands north of the rivers Epte and Andelle, he took the title ‘Duke’ and set his embryonic duchy on a course of expansion. With feudalism came Christianity, the adoption of the French language and the emergence of one of the most far-reaching and influential schools of architecture to grace medieval Europe.
It is no exaggeration to see in the events of 1066 something central to a Norman, and English, sense of identity, events which are relayed in the Bayeux tapestry. But the most visible reminders of William’s success at Hastings are the great Norman castles and churches which are such familiar landmarks of English towns. Their origins lie in the pioneering eleventh-century buildings of Jumièges, Rouen and Caen. This development of a mature Romanesque architecture places Normandy at the forefront of an initiative which was to have profound consequences for later medieval Europe – the development of the integrated and articulate church on a colossal scale – the effects of which are readily seen.
Normandy’s Romanesque buildings have often been the subject of lavish praise, however. That distinctive late twelfth- and thirteenth-century architecture, of polished surfaces, detached shaftwork, giddying spires and sumptuous colour remains less widely appreciated. It is also the case that the buildings undertaken in the aftermath of the Hundred Years War have been overlooked by historians of the period. Yet these are characterised by an extraordinarily well-developed interest in the picturesque and the fantastical, by myriad angles, flickering tracery, and twisted slate-hung roofs. Taken individually they number among the most ravishing buildings of late medieval Europe.
Itinerary
Travel by Eurostar at c. 10.30am from London St Pancras to Paris, and by coach to Mantes, home to the French royal collegiate church of Notre-Dame. Transfer by coach to Rouen where five nights are spent.
Unquestionably the greatest city of Normandy, and one which retains enough of its historic fabric to rank among the most architecturally enthralling cities of northern Europe. Visits include the wonderfully inventive cathedral, the Palais de Justice and the important late Gothic churches of St-Ouen and St-Maclou.
Drive along the Seine to Caudebec-en-Caux to see the virtuosic parish church of Notre-Dame and on to the great ducal monastery of La Trinité at Fécamp. The afternoon is spent at the peerless ruined abbey of Jumièges, one of a handful of buildings which might be said to mark the arrival of mature Romanesque architecture in Europe and finally, the altogether more intimate spaces of St-Martin-de-Boscherville
A morning excursion will take in Conches-en-Ouche, famed for its late medieval and early Renaissance stained glass and Bernay - the essential starting point for an understanding of Norman Romanesque. Some free time in Rouen later in the afternoon.
From the ruins of the Château Gaillard, Richard I’s mighty castle defending the approaches into Normandy, there are spectacular views of the Seine valley. Below is Grand Andely, centred around the church of Notre-Dame (13th and 15th century), while in Petit Andely is the 13th-century church of St-Sauveur. Return to Rouen via Écouis to see the stunning 14th-century sculpture that still embellishes the church.
Caen, capital of Basse-Normandie, offers a feast of celebrated Romanesque buildings, the great abbey churches of St-Etienne and La Trinité both buildings of the first rank built c. 1065 to c. 1140. First of two nights at Château d’Audrieu.
The Bayeux tapestry, subject of much scholarly attention and an object whose splendour and importance can scarcely be overstated, is one of those rare ‘marvels’ which exceeds expectations. Bayeux cathedral is an exceptional building whose piecemeal 13th-century rebuilding programme had the effect of producing an essentially Gothicised Romanesque interior. Afternoon visits to the cathedral at Coutances – a superb example of Norman 13th-century Gothic – and the stunning Romanesque abbey church at Cerisy-la-Forêt.
Evreux’s diocesan museum has been beautifully refurbished and now houses both the exquisite 13th-century shrine of St-Taurin and the English alabaster retable of St George from La Celle. We will follow this with visits to Evreux’s variously Romanesque and Gothic cathedral along with the gloriously ramshackle monastic church of St Taurin. Continue to Paris and return by Eurostar to London St Pancras arriving at c. 8.30pm.
Expert speaker
Dr Richard Plant
Architectural historian and lecturer specialising in the Middle Ages with a strong interest in the modern. He studied at Cambridge, followed by the Courtauld, where he obtained his PhD. He was Deputy Academic Director at Christie’s Education and has published on English and German architecture.
Practicalities
Return rail travel by Eurostar (Standard Premier) from London St Pancras to Paris; coach travel in France; accommodation as described below; breakfasts and 5 dinners with wine or beer, soft drinks, water and coffee; all admissions; all tips; all taxes; the services of the lecturer and tour manager.
Mercure Rouen Centre Cathédrale: modern, functional 4-star hotel in the historic centre. Château d’Audrieu: 18th-century château in the Normandy countryside, converted into a 5-star hotel. Single occupancy rooms are doubles for sole use.
The tour involves a lot of walking, some on roughly paved streets, and a fair amount of standing around. You need to be able to carry your luggage on and off the train and within the stations. On some days there is a lot of coach travel.
Between 10 and 22 participants.
Before booking, please refer to the FCDO website to ensure you are happy with the travel advice for the destination(s) you are visiting.
Classical Turkey, 25 April–4 May 2025
Pompeii & Herculaneum, 28 April–3 May 2025
World Heritage Malta, 28 April–4 May 2025
Medieval Saxony, 28 April–7 May 2025
Gastronomic Provence, 1–8 May 2025
Art in the Netherlands, 2–8 May 2025
Courts of Northern Italy, 2–9 May 2025
The Ligurian Coast, 3–9 May 2025
Arts & Crafts in the Lake District, 19–23 May 2025
The Venetian Land Empire, 19–28 May 2025
Moldavia & Transylvania, 22 May–1 June 2025
Dates & prices
2025
Date
Speaker
Price
16
Date:
10th - 17th May 2025
Speaker:
Dr Richard Plant
Price:
£3,440 ex flights
£3,620 inc flights
(Based on two sharing)Testimonials
“Excellent itinerary. Upper Normandy is where you can can see the transition from Romanesque to late Gothic architecture in a bite-sized area. The examples were well chosen and nicely connected to cathedrals in England.
”
“What can I say? Yet again, MRT has triumphed. Even the weather was superb. What a first class holiday.
”
“The sheer pleasure - and relief- of having every aspect of one's trip so efficiently organised is worth a great deal, as is the opportunity to see and learn about such magnificent buildings and items of material culture.
”
“An admirable itinerary: it took in most of the medieval sites in Normandy.
”
